Our train arrived in the city of Irkutsk where we were met on the platform by a guide that would transfer us to the village of Listvyanka on the shores of Lake Baikal. Much to our relief he was standing there with a sign that had one of our parties name on it and when we gathered around we discovered he spoke excellent English (phew!). In fact one of the first things he said was “does one of you need to pick up luggage from the airport?”.
Our travel agent had got in touch with the transfer company and had arranged for us to stop at the airport enroute to Listvyanka. Surprisingly the airport was in town, or at least it felt like it. The guide came in with me and acted as translator which made the whole process painless and fast.
Once again reunited with my stuff all was right with the world. The drive to Listvyanka was about an hour through the birch forests or Taiga as they call it (just like my goretex coat). Our guide gave us each a small map for our orientation in the village with some suggestions of what to see and even where the local bakery was should we wish to partake in the local pastries. He is quite chatty with interesting facts about the area and the history which is all very interesting.
We are staying at the Baikal Chalet. Our booking is for 2 nights including breakfast but our guide has just informed us we can include dinner for a flat 300 rubles. We all quickly agree as it is just one less thing to think about. The Chalet is up a little valley from Lake shore (i.e up a long hill) and then up what seem like 600 steps but was probably closer to 50. The area looks run down but has a quiet charm to it. However, all I’m really thinking about at the is point is how badly I need a shower and clean underwear.
The rooms are chalet-esque with a stunning view down towards the very frozen lake. I guess all of us had the same idea about the shower, it had been 3 nights on the train without one after all and the last one in didn’t get any hot water :( Oh and the shower door came off (but I fixed it the next day).
Dinner was spectacular with fresh grilled Omul fish, yummy potatoes with onions and LOTS of butter, a vinegar coleslaw (yes it is possible to make the stuff without any mayo)
and for dessert Pfeffernusse spice cookies. For an additional 50 rubles (or 1.21 GBP) we could have a 500ml can of Russian beer. Such a deal :)
The idea was to play some cards after dinner but we ended up spending the evening chatting with 2 Brits we had just met on the train (the Mother and Daughter) and drinking far too much tea, coffee and nibbling on those cookies.
By the time I got back to the room I was exhausted and very excited to be sleeping in a bed that did not require me to climb up a skinny ladder that was moving nor have any risk of being flung off it in the middle of the night.
Bliss.
