The Scottish Lemon 2.0

As we head further west our trains seem to be improving in quality.  But we still can’t seem to escape the green colour scheme.

We had a fabulous car attendant this leg of the journey.  She didn’t speak a lick of English but she had a real Motherly way about her and she seemed to enjoy looking after us girls.

She caught me attempting to take some abstract shots of the trains Samovar and tapped me on the shoulder and made a motion for me to follow her.  She took me to a spot inbetween two cars to what was probably the only clean window on the whole of the train so I could take photos out the window.

I didn’t have the heart to tell her I wasn’t interested in landscapes.  I graciously thanked her with a Спасибо and then when she’d left I turned away from the view and took this photo.

Next stop Perm at a more respectable 11:03 arrival time.

I’d like to tell you that everything was wine, roses, romance, adventure and excitement.  But being on a train for a stretch of 2 nights and a day was anything but (granted this is just my opinion). 

There are 4 of us in a narrow carriage.  I’m on the top bunk which hangs down low enough that I can sit up without hitting my head on the roof but the bed itself is narrow which makes for harrowing nights as you are thrown too and fro as the train jerks from side to side.  And should the trail slow down suddenly, you need to grab onto something fast as the guard rail (if there is one) isn’t all that big.

But what to do for 2 nights and a day?  This isn’t like a hotel room where you get a TV with a movie channel or in-room broadband.  There are no plugs in the carriage either, although there are 2 in the hall but always seem to be in use by someone recharging a mobile.  We’ve all brought books along, mp3 players, a few games but after a while one starts to get a bit stir crazy from being in a confined space with no means of escape.

Did I mention that the heat is always on and pumping out?

There is the dining car which may have a small TV but as I don’t understand Russian so that provides limited amusement.  I remember feeling disappointed that the dining car wasn’t more of a communal meeting place for other travelers.  Most often I had the place to myself.

The one communal space seemed to be the narrow hall that extended the length of each railcar.  Everyone just standing at the window wistfully looking out at the barren landscape that never seemed to change.

The train does make periodic stops along the way (as trains do) but there is much confusion and uncertainty as to how long a stop is for (5 min, 15? 30?).  The guide book we have is assuming you are traveling in the summer and heading towards Vladivostok.  Whereas we are travelling in spring (if you can call it that) and going in the opposite direction, so the schedule isn’t the same.  So getting off to explore the platform is a bit of a risk.

Our last full day on the train provided some entertainment as we all decided to have dinner in the dining car.  You’re limited as to how much food you can bring with you as you’ve no fridge to keep perishables. 

Here were our dinner choices:

With one outdated phrasebook we managed to figure out what was soup vs mains.  But often we’d point at something only to be given a shaking of the head and waving of hands to be told no.  Eventually we all managed to order something and it was all wonderfull (apparently I ordered fish).

As the sun sets behind the birch trees our next stop will bring us to Omsk at something crazy like 06:07.

I’d forgotten what real cold feels like but it all came back to me soon enough.  Listvianka would be our brush with winter in Siberia. The snow covered mountains, a completely frozen Lake Baikal, crystal clear blue sky and ice crystals in the air.  The temperature itself wasn’t in the extremes, probably something like -17 C.  But when the wind would kick up it was the -32 wind chills that brought back memories of winters in Edmonton and Toronto.  When it hits your face it stings your skin and you quickly feel  numb.

Walking down to the main road from the chalet I came across this guy poking his head over the fence and gave us a friendly wave.  He happily agreed to my taking a photo and gave a big smile. 

 F and I were off in search of an old wooden church our guide had told us about.  We snaked our way through the frozen muddy streets looking at the weathered looking wooden houses.   We found the church eventually and it’s tiny and painted a peach colour. My thoughts on the choice of bright colours we’ve seen in Siberia are it’s a way for people to balance the gray/brown bleakness of the surrounding area.  Either that or they’re trying to look like a Russian version of Miami.

We wander around the building and take some photos of the exterior.  I notice one elderly lady walking across the church yard and go inside.  I put my camera away (you’re not allowed to take photos inside) and slowly open the inner door that leads to the sanctuary.  I open it about 6 inches and much to my horror I look inside and see before me an open casket, the priest and 3 mourners all looking back towards me.  Seems there is a funeral in process, oooops L  So much for seeing the church. 

We quickly exit outside just as C&M arrive and we break the bad news.  Didn’t have much planned for the day apart from that to be honest.  Seems like a good a time as any to find the bakery that we’d been told about and warm ourselves with a steaming cups of espresso and pasteries that were still warm they were so fresh.  I had something like a banana Danish, extremely yummy.

 Listvianka is a very small village but the idea of a frozen lake was a new experience for the friends I was travelling with.  They found it so strange to see trucks driving along it’s surface.  You could also see past ice fishing holes that had since frozen over when  no longer in use.   Goofed around taking some silly shots jumping up and down on the surface. 

We walked around a bit more and C wanted to go back to the cafe as she was trying to load iTunes on her het book and there was a wi-fi connection next door.  It was around this time that I noticed the lens cap was missing from my camera.  I parked C at the cafe and I decided to try and retrace my steps back to the church as that was the last I remembered putting it on.  As I started back walking through the snow covered path this little ball of fur came happily bounding after  me. 

 I’m pretty sure he was a stray as his fur was looking a bit matted but he was so cute and he just decided to start walking with me.   When I got to the church he stopped at the steps and then sat down looking at me as if to say, I’ll wait here.

I once again slowly opened the door and this time there was no dead body or mourners to be seen so I took the opportunity to take a look around.  The walls were white washed and there was much artwork in guilded frames hanging but it the overall look seemed subtle and understated.  I came out and my new found companion was standing there waiting for me wagging his tail.  Walking back I’m happy to report I did find the lost lens cap.  When I got back to my starting point the puppy then looked up at me and tilted his cute head as if to say it’s been fun and then off he went to sit on some steps in the sun as I walked back to the bakery to collect C.

We wandered along the main street and found the market area where many of the stalls were selling dried Omal fish.  A few other stalls had handicrafts but as it’s not tourist season yet many stalls were empty.  We got to the end of the road and there was a large gate that was open so I wandered in and took a few photos.  Shortly afterward I heard some harsh words that I’m guessing would be translated into something like “hey, what are you doing, you’re not allowed in here”  Ooops again J  I think the resulting shot was worth it though.

Back to our chalet for another wonderful home cooked meal and conversations with the mother/daughter we had met on the train.  This is our last night as tomorrow morning we go back to Irkutsk for the day before boarding the train for the next leg of our journey.

Our train arrived in the city of Irkutsk where we were met on the platform by a guide that would transfer us to the village of Listvyanka on the shores of Lake Baikal.  Much to our relief he was standing there with a sign that had one of our parties name on it and when we gathered around we discovered he spoke excellent English (phew!).  In fact one of the first things he said was “does one of you need to pick up luggage from the airport?”.

Our travel agent had got in touch with the transfer company and had arranged for us to stop at the airport enroute to Listvyanka.  Surprisingly the airport was in town, or at least it felt like it.  The guide came in with me and acted as translator which made the whole process painless and fast. 

Once again reunited with my stuff all was right with the world.  The drive to Listvyanka was about an hour through the birch forests or Taiga as they call it (just like my goretex coat).  Our guide gave us each a small map for our orientation in the village with some suggestions of what to see and even where the local bakery was should we wish to partake in the local pastries.  He is quite chatty with interesting facts about the area and the history which is all very interesting.

We are staying at the Baikal Chalet.  Our booking is for 2 nights including breakfast but our guide has just informed us we can include dinner for a flat 300 rubles.  We all quickly agree as it is just one less thing to think about.  The Chalet is up a little valley from Lake shore (i.e up a long hill) and then up what seem like 600 steps but was probably closer to 50.  The area looks run down but has a quiet charm to it.  However, all I’m really thinking about at the is point is how badly I need a shower and clean underwear.

The rooms are chalet-esque with a stunning view down towards the very frozen lake.  I guess all of us had the same idea about the shower, it had been 3 nights on the train without one after all and the last one in didn’t get any hot water :(  Oh and the shower door came off (but I fixed it the next day).

Dinner was spectacular with fresh grilled Omul fish, yummy potatoes with onions and LOTS of butter, a vinegar coleslaw (yes it is possible to make the stuff without any mayo)

and for dessert Pfeffernusse spice cookies.  For an additional 50 rubles (or 1.21 GBP) we could have a 500ml can of Russian beer.  Such a deal :)

The idea was to play some cards after dinner but we ended up spending the evening chatting with 2 Brits we had just met on the train (the Mother and Daughter) and drinking far too much tea, coffee and nibbling on those cookies.

By the time I got back to the room I was exhausted and very excited to be sleeping in a bed that did not require me to climb up a skinny ladder that was moving nor have any risk of being flung off it in the middle of the night.

Bliss.

Our train doesn’t depart until 21:52 so we’ve got the whole day to explore.  Check out is at noon, but we can extend that to 14:00 for no extra charge plus they have a left luggage room so we are fine to leave our bags for the day.

The plan is to find the train station, a grocery store then the rest of the day is left to wander the city.  It’s Sunday so not sure what all is going to be open.  M wants to do some writing, C wants to sleep so F and I wander over to the abandoned play park and explore.

It seems like such a strange place.  I can see the remains of a BBQ stand, change rooms, picnic tables and a stage and outdoor dance floor.  It’s seen better days and everything is rusted and in some need of TLC.  Yet it is still in use as a public space even if no one is taking care of it.

There are 2 men doing some kick-boxing sparring, a young couple comes with their little girl to play on the rusty slide, an elderly Grandmother comes later with her infant granddaughter to play on the merry-go-round.

There is a small concrete dock that you can walk onto and listen to the ice.  Depending on the tide the ice floes will come right up to shore as they did this morning with the fog.  It’s bright, clear and with the sun shining it’s not nearly as cold as I initially thought so I already need to take off a layer.  And mud, did I mention the mud?  It’s everywhere and on everything, including my sneakers.

We circle back to the hotel and pick up the other two and head off to find the train station.  It’s just a quick 10 min walk and the grocery store is right across the street so that’s simple enough.  The station is right down at the harbour and there are lots of boats and ships in the area as well as lots of sailors.  Can I just say at this moment, how sexy the Russian Sailor uniform is, just sayin J

In our wanders we were approached by 2 young men that ended up being 1^st year students at the Mariners college.  I think they just wanted to practise their English as there didn’t seem to be a purpose other than to say a friendly hello.  They were nice enough to pose for a photo as well which was appreciated.  It wasn’t until after we left that I realized we didn’t get their names.

There is a main square down by the water with a large statue commemorating some military conquest I’m sure.  There are also a number of military vehicles and guys in fatigues so I’m thinking now is not a good time to take a photo.  We find the GUM shopping centre which is the old Soviet style mall.  Kind of like a House of Fraser but with kiosks and lots of empty space.  All I know is it’s incredibly hot in here and I last all of about 10 min before I need to go outside.

In our wanders of the day I come across a submarine, a military memorial, some onion dome thing that looks more like a tourist place than a church and a fancy Arch.  There is music that is being piped in from the museum across from it playing a waltz\z and there are some little kids dancing.

We take a tram ride up the side of a hill to a viewpoint called the Eagles Nest.  I suppose it would be beautiful if there wasn’t so much smog in the air and the city wasn’t so industrial looking.  I hesitate to call Vladivostok ugly, but it certainly doesn’t have much going for it aesthetically from what I’ve seen so far.  Everything is dusty, gray and extremely tired looking, especially our hotel.  At one point in time I’m sure it was a gleaming white concrete structure.  But in looking at it today it looks forgotten with peeling paint and no landscaping just brown weeds and mud surrounding it.

Claire and I head back to the hotel before the others and find the little snack shop above reception and purchase a bottle of local brew and a large bag of crips.  It is a nice view overlooking the water and the ice floes have wandered further out to sea again.  There is no wind so the sea is like glass.

Down in reception there is a little girl dancing and leaping around the large space in a tutu.

We stop for dinner enroute to the train station.  Just a wee little place where you order from the counter and we get 4 different kinds of perogies (cabbage, potato, sweetened cheese (kind of like ricotta) and one that has some kind of meat (not my fav).  There is a wee little girl that keeps walking past our table, maybe 3 yrs old?  There is also a small gift shop attached to the cafe and when looking around I spot my opportunity to snap her picture (her mom is behind me).  I take it then show the little girl and she bursts into a giggle.  Then keeps following me around tugging on my trouser leg and pointing at my camera so I show her the photo again.  Adorable :)

Dinner finished we make our way down to the station and I do guard duty with the bags as the other 3 head to the market across the street to pick up some food to take on our 3 day journey on the train.

When the time comes we make our way to the platform, find our carriage and board.  They really should adopt the ‘mind the gap’ campaign here as the gap is ridiculous.  I have to pass my bags to M as I haul myself up onto the train (no steps) using both handrails.

We are staying in 2^nd class with a 4 berth sleeper (think bunk beds). A mattress roll, feather pillow, sheets, wool blanket and what looks like a tea towel are supplied.

We are ready to begin the first leg of our train journey across Siberia from Vladivostok to Irkutsk (3 nights/3 days).  Not sure just what I’ve got myself into here.